South Spitsbergen - Bear Island

Bell Sund is one of the largest fjord systems in Svalbard. The ocean currents make this area slightly warmer than other areas in the archipelago, which shows in the relatively lush vegetation. Here there are excellent opportunities to enjoy both history and wildlife.

One possibility is Ahlstrandhalvøya, at the mouth of Van Keulenfjorden, where piles of beluga skeletons can be found. These remains of 19th-century whale slaughter are a haunting reminder of the consequences of rampant exploitation. Fortunately, belugas were not hunted into extinction, and you may still see them in the area.

In Recherchefjord at Lagerneset, the Dutch had a 17th-century whaling station, and in the Recherche lagoon we see often ringed seals. Alternatively, we may land at Millarodden at the north side of Bell Sund, where we may see walruses hauling out.

Though the bird mountains of Ingeborgfjellet are deserted in September, a landing on the northern shore of Bell Sund makes for a good walk among whale bones, while the southern shore has fantastic geological formations.

We start the day by quietly cruising Brepollen in the spectacular Hornsund area of southern Spitsbergen, enjoying the scenery of glacier fronts and towering mountain peaks. The mountain of Hornsundtind rises to 1,431 meters (4,695 feet), while the peak of Bautaen testifies to why early Dutch explorers gave this island the name Spitsbergen, meaning “pointed mountains.”

There are 14 magnificent glaciers in the area, and we have a fair chance of encountering seals and polar bears. In late afternoon, we will try to reach Palfylodden, a walrus haul-out site at the southern entrance of the fjord.

Depending on the prevailing winds, we will sail in the morning along the east coast of Bear Island by Myserifjellet. We also plan to land in Kvalrossbukta, where we will see the remains of a whaling station from early in the previous century.

Afterward we may land in the shallow valley of Rendalen, where we still might see great skuas with their fledging young. Just south of this is the rock formation Perleporten, where in very calm weather you can sail through by Zodiac. The high seabird cliffs are deserted by this time.

Next we will spend a whole day sailing south on the Barents Sea en route to Norway, possibly encountering different species of whales in the mixing zones of the Gulf Stream and Barents currents. Later in the night, we may have the first chance to see the aurora borealis while the skies get darker.